
6,^m5 



VY eULTURE 




CAVY CULTURE 

YY 

A lunk nf Prartiral Suatrurttoua mi llie 
of (f^utn^a jptgs 






Copyrlglited 1920, by E. MJcliael* 
ILLIISTKATED 



PuHtlished by 

E. Micliaels^ 2J^<>T KiamoHtl St , Philadelphia. Pa. 



I 



CONTENTS Pa^e 

CHAPTER I 

Characteristics afid History 5 

CHAPTER II 

Use of Guinea Pigs^ Scientific Use, Food Valtie^ 
Fur Vatue, As Pets and as a Hobby y 

CHAPTER III 
Hojise, Hutch and Pen Constritcticn, Bui/difig 
the Guinea Pig House^ Inside Construction 
Hutches, Pens i j 

CHAPTER IV 

Feedings Watering 2^ 

CHAPTER V 

Distinguishing the Sex jj 

CHAPTER VI 
Breeding^ Line-Breeding^ In-Breeding,^ C^oss- 
Breeding 75 

CHAPTER VII 
Varieties y i 

CHAPTER VIII 

Clea^mig 5 / 

CHAPTER IX 
Heating and Ventilating jj 

CHAPTER X 

Diseases — Sanitary Suggestions ^^ 

CHAPTER XI 

Don* ts lor Beginners 6^ 

CHAPTER XII 

Mai ketiviji. Soliciting Orders, Shippir(^ . . . .66 

CHAPTER XIII 
Proji table Raising of Guinea Pigs 6g 



)C1,A5J^9B9:? 2 



'^cB -7 \<:^'^{} 



OS 



ILLUSTRATIONS 


Page 


Broken Colored English Cavy ------ 


- 4 


Chart Naming Parts of Guinea Pig 


6 


While Abyssinian Cavy 


12 


Elevation Plan of Guinea Pig Housj 


15 


Floor Plan of Guinea Pig House 


17 


An Ideal Gu nea Pig House * ^ - ^ 


18 


Goveinment Hutches . - - 


19 


Government Sectional Stack Hutches 


20 


1 llustrating Shoe Box Hutch Construct'on 


21 


Three Story Hutch .--.-* 


22 


Sliding Draw Hutch . . - . . 


23 


Open Run Pens - . - ^ . - 


25 


Construction of Tier Pens - ' - 


27 


White English Cavies * ' 


32 


Outside view of a Caviary * " " ' 


33 


Hutches Made from Packing oxes 


34 


Line Breeding Chart 


37 


Self Colored Cream English Cavies 


42 


Self Colored Red English Cavy 


44 


Cream Abyssinian Cavy - - - - 


47 


White Peruvian Cavy 


48 


A Happy Family - - - - ' 


50 


Carrier for Moving Cavies - - . . 


52 


Ready for Market - - . - - 


54 


Shipping Hutch - - ^ - - . 


67 


English Broken Colored Guinea Pig 


68 


Winter view at a New England Caviary 


72 



CHAPTER I 

(EliarartrrtiilirB mxh l^iatury 

Guinea pigs are a small domesticated animal belonging to 
the rabbit and squirrel families. They resemble somewhat a 
small-sized rabbit in shape, though they lack the long ears sc 
characteristic of that rodent. They are a well-built animal, 
plump of body, with short, round ears, short legs, small feet 
and a fine silky fur of a bright variety of colors. Guinea pigs 
are especially conspicuous in having only the rudimentary 
formation of a tail. Instead of five toes on each foot, common 
to so many mammals, guinea pigs have but four on the front 
and three on the hind foot. Figure 5 is a chart naming the 
parts of a guinea pig. 

They are quick in action, harmless and become quite tame 
and afi^ectionate. When full-grown they vary from a pound 
and a half to three pounds in weight, which size is usualK" 
attained v^^hen about 18 months old. Their average life is 
about four years, although some have been known to live 
longer. 

Guinea pigs are native to South America. In their native 
state they were of no great economic value, except occasional!}- 
as food for the Indians. The Spaniards, on exploring the 
South American country about the Northern Andes in the 
early sixteenth century, found these little animals domesti- 
cate 1 in the homes of the natives. Attracted by their beauti- 
ful array of colors, the Spaniards, on returning to Europe, took 
some v.'ith them. Here they increased in size and beautv in 
the process of domestication. Our Peruvian and Abyssinian 
strains of guinea pigs are a development attained after their 
importation into Europe. Guinea pigs were brought into 
Kortli America either by settlers from Europe or by traders 
from ^oulh America. ■ 

In their wild state guinea pigs resemble very little our 
domesticate 1 species. They are of a brownish-gray color and 
smaller in size. The wild guinea p'g breeds only twice a year. 



having from one to two young to a litter. 

(jiiinea ])ig is the incorrect name of these rodents, their 
name being cavy, an abbreviation of their species name, cavia 
cobaya. The origin of the name by which tney are commonly 
known, "Guinea Pig," is a conundrum to the fancy. Some 
claim this name is the evolution of their remarkable resem- 
blance to a small-sized pig, and the fact that in England, dur- 
ing the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, cavies sold for 
about a guinea (English coin) each. It is possible that in the 
every-day conversation of that time they became known as 
the pig that sold for a guinea, or, as we now know them, the 
guinea ])ig. 



^i^ooutiBR 



NOSE, 







Chart iinniiiig parts of n Giiin<>n Pig 

We have no statements or publications on this subject 
that have been preserved from that period, undoubtedly 
because guinea pigs were not of sufficient importance, conse- 
quently there is no absolute certainty as to the authenticity of 
the ab<')ve. However, this appears to explain best why so 
.attractive an animal should have such an unapi)lying name. 
In the following treatise we shall use the name guinea pig 
and cavy indiscriminately, 



CHAPTER TI 

llarB flf (Suiura ptya 

Guinea pig's have three fundamental uses: — Science, food, 
and for fur. To these may be added a fourth and fifth use, 
when the fancy is considered, use as pets and for exhibitions 
on the show bench. Most of these uses, however, can at pres- 
ent hardly be termed as such, due to the enormous quantities 
required for the first-named use, leaving very few, if any, 
guinea pigs to be had for any other purpose. The need of 
gtiinea pigs in research and experimental work w^as the orig- 
inal use which started the present large demand. So great 
has been this demand, that for years a sufficient supply has not 
l)een available. 

For centuries a second use was known, the palatability of 
these little animals having classed them as a favorite dish. 
The fur value of the guinea pig is a growth of the present time, 
although considerable difiiculty is being had by those develop- 
ing it, due to the care required to set the guinea pig's hair. 

It is to be hoped that in time sufficient quantities of these 
much-needed animals may be bred, so that not only may our 
laboratories be adequately supplied, but also some may be had 
to develop these two possibilities which now^ otTer such a 
])romising future. 

S>rtnittftr Hs? 

Undou1)tedly more guinea pigs are bred and sold for 
experimentation m laboratories than for all other purposes 
combined, even including those that are bred as a hobby and 
as pets. The demand for this use has increased so rapidly 
that many institutions were compelled to establish special 
departments for the purpose of locating and keeping an avail- 
able supply, so as to avoid hindrance and delay in conducting 
their vvork. Their principal use in the laboratory is the means 
()f i)reparing, testing and standardizing the different antitoxins 
after the serum has been extracted from the cow or horse. 



The serum is seldom taken from the g-uinea p\g. In case the 
guinea pii^ is not killed by the injection, as often happens, he is 
usually :,;iffocated in large ^as machines as a precaution to 
prevent such stock from becoming' mixed with those that are 
n(^rmal. Often used guinea pigs are resold to other institutions 
who can make use of such stock to demonstrate to students: 
also for other vivisection wOrk; - Used guinea pigs. -will live, 
thrive and multiply just the same as normal stock, very little; 
if any, difference being distinguishable between them and, the 
normal strain until they are again tested. It is for this reason 
so much care should be taken by breeders, beginners, or, >n 
fact, any one purchasing guinea pigs. Small and iulrelicLt)le 
in:/.ilutions sometimes'ofifer'such stock for sale at very induc- 
i;.g figures and in this way spread worthless stock iibo.ut;:the 
country. \ ' • ' • ; ;.: ■, .; 

The size comiuonly required for the testing of diphtheria. 
typhoid fever, etc., antitoxin, is a specimen weighing about 2^0 
grammes (8 1-3 ounces). ' A l-arger guinea pig is required for 
use in the testing of tetaiius antitoxin (used for tetanus caused 
by bullet and powder Wounds), oiie weighing approximately 
i'rom />30 to 360 grammes (11 to 12 ounces). 

The testing, preparing arid standardizing of antitoxin is 
not the only medicinal use for guinea pig's. Thousancs are 
used every year in theWasserman blood test for syphilis. 
For this puri)ose a large guinea pig is needed, one having a 
considerable amount- of-'blood. Cjuinea p-igs are also used in 
hereditary experiments, numerous research experiments ; in 
\ivisection, etc. ; in fact, their uses in the medical field are 
increasing rapidly. "^^^^-'^ W;'- v:. "; 

With the high prices offered for young guinea pigs by 
laboratories, the excellent food value of this anhnal has been 
greatly neglc^cted in this' cbtintry. Italy is the most advanced 
in the use of guinea pigs as food. There guinea pigs are conr 
sidered a great delicacy arid most peasants keep a number of 
them, similarly as- chickens ^are kept in .Vrnerica. And v/hy 
shouldn't they? The guinea pig is one of the cleanest -of 
animals. He will eat no foul or spciici food; only the best 

8 ■"' ■ ' '■ '■■■ 



will satisfy him. In South America considerable numbers are 
also raised for food, especially by the natives. Guinea pig's 
are most tender and palatable when about four months old. 

When guinea pigs are raised for food the testicles of the 
male should be removed when about a month old, similarly as 
done in steers, as ;this improves not only the growth of the 
young boar, but also its meat value. 

The testicles may be removed by rapidly making an 
incision between •the lobes, disconnecting the nerves about 
each and forcing them out of the incision. Balsam of fur 
should be applied to the wound to stop the flow of blood an 1 
aid in its healing. 

The method usually employed of dressing and preparing 
the food is that which originated with the Peruvians. The ani- 
mal is killed by dislocating its neck, after w^hich it goes through 
about the same processes as a suckling pig in preparation 
for cooking. Its throat is cut, it is hung up for a few m.nutes 
to bleed, and is then scalded in water, not too hot at first. 
The hair is removed, the skin scraped with a knife, the viscera 
taken out, and the carcass washed in tepid water. It is then 
ready for the cook. The Peruvians usually roasted the animals, 
but the number of possible ways of cooking them is unl mited. 
At the present time quite a few guinea pigs are served in our 
large hotels under the names of French dishes. 

3Fur lalite 

With the gradual decrease in the available amount of raw 
fur due to the advancing strides of civilization, pushing back 
our fur animals more and more each year, also to the growing- 
demand for raw fur, manufacturers have naturally sought sub- 
stitutes so as to reduce the high cost of raw material. The 
guinea pig's pelt is one of the possibilities now under consid- 
eration. Its soft, silky texture makes it of unusual value, but 
unfortunately considerable difficulty is had in curing and 
tanning this skin. The continual persistence shown by the 
men interested in this phase of the guinea pig industry is grad- 
ually overcoming this difficulty, until at the present time 
several very good formulae have been devised to cure and tan 
the skin. 



The guinea pig should be killed and skinned in cold 
weather, as the hair is not fit to cure under other conditions. 
The carcass may be used for food, serving as a byproduct to 
the fur breeder. Immediately after the guinea pig is skinned 
the fleshy si-;e of the skin should be completely covered with 
salt or else the skin should be placed in a salt solution. It 
should then be placed to one side and not disturbed for at least 
twelve hours until thoroughly cured. When cured, all the fat 
and flesh should be scraped off and the bloody matter and other 
i:)articles aihering to the skin removed in warm water, using 
sal-soda to cut the grease and blood. The skin should be 
wrung out and left to dry, keeping the skin soft and moist, 
while the lur is drying. The skin is now ready for tanning. 
Alum is usually used to tan most skins, but, due to the peculiar 
concit'on of the guinea pig's hair, a 30 per cent solution of 
formaldehyde will be found much better. The skin should 
be al'owed to remain in this solution for twelve hours. When 
taken from the solution it should be stretched on a board as 
light'y as possible, with the,fur side to the board. As the skin 
turns white, sane pr.per it off, after which it should be manip- 
ulated wi^h the ban's, pounding ,and pulling, so as to make 
it soft. Qjive oil may be applied to the skin after it is tanned, 
so as to keep it soft and flexible. 

Th.e Peruvian variety, or cross between the Peruvian and 
English variety, is the best to rais^^ for this purpose, due to 
the J^etter quality of the fur. The fur'raised guinea pigs should 
gradually be accustomed to cold weather until they become 
ncclimated to the low temperature, as this wdll lengthen and 
improve the quality of the fur. • - 

,In years to come the stability of the guinea pig industry 
will not depend entirely on the profits made by breeding for 
experimental use, but largely on the sale of the fur and meat 
of this animal. It is not meant by this that the laboratory 
demand will decrease; on the contrary, it will increase; but the 
fur and meat demand will also increase and much more 
rapidly than the laboratory demand, in consideration that it is 
now an undevelo{)ed resource. 



10 



As ]prtii au^ ail a T^nlibif 

The heavy demand for guinea pigs for experimentation 
b.as drawn heavily on the surpkis formerly found in many pet 
stores, and as a consequence has greatly retarded the selling 
of guinea pigs as pets. 

A guinea pig makes an ideal and interesting pel, heing 
harmless and amusing. They do not bite nor scratch, conse- 
quently young children may play with them with even more 
safety than they can with a cat or dog, for cats frequently 
scratch and dogs sometimes bite. They are not a common, 
ordinary pet, being more of a novelty, and as a consetiuence 
demand very good prices. 

Guinea pigs as a hobby was started and developed mostly 
in England. The Englishman is without doubt a true lover 
of animals. He has developed as a hobby nearly all of our 
d(Mnestic animals. By careful experimental breeding, mostly 
for the recreation he thereby attained after his day's work, 
the Englishman developed the numerous varieties of guinea 
])igs now known; also perfected the guinea pig to his present 
graceful shape of body, the noble pose and bearing of his 
head and shoulders and the grandeur of his glossy, silky coat 
of fur. 

It must not be overlooked, however, the rapid strides 
which our American fanciers are making. Today thousands 
of Americans breed solely for the pleasure they derive in per- 
fecting their stock in competition with each other at the show 
bench. The American fanciers are gradually developing sev- 
eral new shades of the self-colored guinea pig. among which 
is the chocolate and the steel blue agoutis. They also have 
shown many remarkable specimens at their exhibitions. 

There are several very good associations which are en- 
couraging this work, the United Cavy Breeders' Association 
being devoted solely to the guinea pig, while the National 
l)ree''ers' and Fanciers' Association is devoted to encourage 
all of the small domestic animals. 

11 




■u, 

cs 

03 






< 



12 



CHAPTER III 

i^nusi*, i^utrb auiJ T^nx (Euuatruriinu 

Time, labor and capital are the assets which guinea pi.i^' 
raisers and novices must have in order to solve their housing" 
and hutch-constructing problems. 

While it is quite true that guinea pigs will thrive and 
multiply in almost any kind of wooden enclosure, still, one 
would hardly expect to keep this enclosure in the open without 
some sort of protection against the elements. 

Of the three assets, all people have at least one to their 
credit — that of time; most people have the second — ^the ability 
to work, while a favored few possess the third — capital. For 
these favored few most of the housing problems are eliminated, 
for with capital at their command and the suggestions given in 
this chapter they may readily procure labor to construct for 
them a serviceable guinea pig house and equip same with 
adaptable pens. 

Unfortunately, however, many beginners lack the third 
asset and must depend more on thrift and will to attain their 
goal. This should not discourage the small beginner, for while 
he must necessarily have more patience and persistence at 
the start, later, when results are attained, he will find himself 
well rewarded for his efforts and patience. 

The small beginner who is fortunate enough to have a 
spare room or dry cellar need only construct the wooden en- 
closures known as the pen or the hutch, since the stanch 
walls and tight roof of the dwelling house afford sufficient 
protection against the elements. 

Those having an outhouse already constructed or a bari 
which may be utilized need go only to the expense of fitting 
same for protection against strong winds and other climatic 
conditions. This may be accomplished in the case of the out- 
house by lining the insic'e either with a heavy paper or tliin 
boards. When a barn is used it is best to partition a part o;V 
and make this as comfortable as possible. This divided pnrt 

13 



should be sufficiently large to accommodate the number ot 
guinea pigs to be housed without overcrowding or causing 
stagnated atifiosphere. Not that it should be overly large, for 
the closer guinea pigs are kept, especially in the winter 
months, the more comfortable they will be. 

Imlbtug till* dintiipa pig l^unsc 

The location of the prospective guinea pig house, while 
not essentially important, nevertheless is of sufficient value 
to be given some discussion, since a favorable location in- 
creases the comfort of the stock and also saves considerable 
fuel when artificial heat is used. The site preferred is one 
having a southern exposure, since this assures the guinea pigs 
the w^arming rays of the winter sun, while one having some 
natural protection from the north will break the cold winter 
winds before striking the house. 

A house constructed with a cellar is best for guinea pig 
raising, since the cellar eliminates most of the ground damp- 
ness so dangerous to guinea pigs. This dampness is usually 
found on ground floors. In part of the cellar the furnace may 
be kept, should artificial heating be installed, while the balance 
may be used to store roots for winter feeding. ., 

The house should be built of wood — 'the foundation, of 
course, of stone. It should be inner-lined with boards or 
strong paper, leaving from two to three inches of air space 
between the main construction and the lining. Some city laws 
])rohibit the construction of frame buildings, which necessi- 
tates a brick, concrete or metallic structure. ' 

When such buildings are used it is especially essential 
that they be lined on the inside with wood, s*in€-e the brick, 
concrete or metallic construction s^causes a lowering of the 
temperature which can only be counteracted, when not lined, 
by an excessive waste of artificial heat. 

For the outer construction of a frame building hemlock 
is undoubtedly the most durable and cheapest lumber- that 
may l)e used, while for inside work North Carolina pine or 
cy|)ress is both inexpensive and will answer the purpose. 

14 




Fisur** <> l<)le vut ion I'ltiiisi of lln- Itlfeat Guinea Pi^ Hous** 

15 



Figures 6 and 7 will give the general plans of a guinea 
l)ig house, and figure "■ rht finishec' .ippearance. Of course, 
many variations and possihly improvements may be added to 
the Ideas as suggested by these plans, but for general pur- 
poses they cover all that is required to insure the health and 
welfare of the stock to be housed. 

3ln5tlif (UiinBt I uc timt 

After building the new guinea pig house, repairing the old 
outhouse, dividing the barn, or making comfortable the spare 
room or cellar, as may have been the task, the construction of 
the enclosures in which the guinea pigs are to be kept must 
receive our next consideration. There are two types of enclo- 
sures now in common use- — namely, the hutch and the pen. 

The hutch is the detachable guinea pig enclosure, while the 
pen is the permanent quarters built in or attached to the build- 
ing. The only practical difference between the two types is 
that one is immovable, while the other may be moved at will 
from one l)uilding to anc^ther. 

In size both the pen and hutch should vary according to 
the number of guinea pigs to be k^pt in each, allowing a square 
foot of floor space for each breeding guinea pig. For example, 
a pen or hutch in which four guinea pigs are to be kept should 
have four square feet of floor space, the dimensions of which 
may be two feet by two feet or one foot by four feet, while 
a pen to accommodate nine breeding guinea pigs should have 
nine square feet of floor space, the dimensions of which may 
be four and a half feet by two or three by three. This allow- 
ance of floor space is sufticient for the permanent quarters of 
t'he breeders as well as their young up until their weaning age. 

The hutches or pens should be kept at least eig'hteen 
inches above the floor, while in the case where a cellar is use.l 
or a room having no cellar or room under it, the enclosures 
should be at least three feet off the floor. 

Some raisers allow the guinea pigs to run on the floor, 
using the foot boards to separate one group from another. 
While it is true they will not jump over the low partitions, still 
they are exposed, on the floor, to a certain amount of damp- 

16 




Fisjnre 7 Fioni plnii of the I<l<>al <iiiliiea Pig Honsie 

17 



ness and this is often responsible for colds and pneumonia. 
Furthermore, they are subject to quite a variation in tempera- 
ture, since the Hoor is the part of the room which always cools 
off the quickest. Drafts, dampness and variable temperature 
are three conditions under wdiich a guinea pig will not thrive. 

In sununer the guinea pigs could be kept in the oj^en on a 
lawn or grass plot,, using a fine mesh wire cage as an enclo- 
sure, constructed without a lloor. This wire frame could be 
moved from place to; place on the lawn which would give the 
guinea pigs plenty of fresh grass to eat. Of course, in case of 
bad weather and in the evenings the guinea pigs should be 
moved under shelter. 




-■-■•■■ ^< ■•■■ .;, 1..;:.. 



Fig, 8 An Ideal GuineB Pig Houwe 



Uutrhrfl 



Many raisers favor the hutch type of enclosure because of 
the ease with which they may be handled and the compara- 
tively small amount of space they occupy. There are many dif- 

18 



ferent varieties of hutches; in fact, many raisers have their 
own special designs which they consider most adaptable to 
raise guinea pigs in. In this chapter we will describe those 
varieties most in use and which may easily and inexpensively 
be constructed. 

O^iutrrumntt l^utrh 

This hutch is used by the (government at their experi- 
mental grounds at Bethesda, Maryland. It is also extensively 
used throughout the country, especially by raisers having only 
a few breeders. The hutch is about 20 inches wide at the 
front, ol/z feet deep and 18 inches high. (Fig. 9.) It will 




^^^i'i:? 



I'-Sui 



-Go%*ernin«»iit Hutches 



accommodate a male, three or four breeding females, and their 
progeny until weaned. The door covers nearly the whole 
front, is hinged at the side, and is made of rather heavy, square- 
nieshed wire netting. Ventilation is afforded by a similarly 
screened opening at the rear of the hutch. (T^^i.o^. 9 ) Galvan- 
ized poultry netting of small mesh stretched on a frame would 
answer for 1)oth door and ventilator, and be less expensive. 

A shelf about 4 inches high is recommended for the back- 
part of each hutch. The space under the shelf is a convenient 
retreat for females that have young, while the shelf itself is 
nearly always chosen by the animals as a sleeping place. 

19 



^Iiop Sox l^utrl) 

A very desirable and inexpensive hutch may be made from 
a shoe or packing box about three or four feet in length and 
two feet in width. A movable lid may be made on the top, 
with wire for the sides, or a wire door may be constructed on 
the side. Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 will show the construction of 
such a pen, using the top as a door and the front covered with 
wire. Such a pen will accommodate from six to eight breeders 
with their young, while the entire cost of building would not 
be over fifty cents. It can readily be built by anyone able to 
drive a nail. 




Pi^ui'f 10 — Government Sectl«>n«l J'tack**!! Hutches 

These hutches are very similar to the last described style, 
with the exception they are constructed so as to be stacked one 
on top of th" other. They may be held together by hooks or 
by holes aj d pxiiS, the upper hutch having small, round pieces 
of wood fastened in its bottom, which sets, when in place, into 
holes bored in the top of the lower hutch. (Fig. 10) 

20 




riG. I 




riG.2 




no. 3 




IFIG. 4 

Illuslrniiiiii Shoe Box Hulcli ronslructioti 



(Tuui, Slirrr anit IFmir ^tnrij liutrhfa 

By tiering hutches one on top of the other many more 
may be got into a house. Furthermore, when distributed 
about the sides of the cavy house they make a very attractive 
appearance. The two, three or four-story hutch resembles 
very much a bookshelf, with doors occupying the entire front 
of each apartment and attached by hinges either to the top or 
l)ottom of the apartment. (See Fig. llj The two-story has 




Fi^. 11 TJire«» Slory Hutch 

two apartments in which the guinea pigs may be kept, the 
three-story has three apartments, etc. In a later part of 
this chai)ter is given the detailed construction of a four-story 
pen, which differs only from the hutch in that the former is 
attached to the building and cannot be moved unless taken 
down in parts. 

Mi^auiiirj Hfittrlirs 

Long runs built two to three feet off the floor, with sides 
about a foot high, either of mesh wire or wood, make the 
best weaning pens for guinea pigs. The size of the hutches 
should be proportionate to the number of guinea pigs it is to 
accommodate. These hutches may als() be built in tiers if 

22 



more convenient to the raiser. The most essential require- 
ment about this style of hutch is that they be long, so that 
the youn^- may have plenty of room to run in. Running and 
playing always encourage the growth of the youngsters and 
he.p to keep them in a good, healthy condition. 




Pig. 12 — Sliding Draw Hutch 

#lt^t^ll Iraut liittrlt 

This style of hutch was developed undoubtedly in an 
cndeavcM- to simj)lify the cleaning of the hutches. It resem- 
l)les very much the tier hutches, only that the lloors of the 
apartments, instead of being fastened to the hutch, are mov- 
able, while in the front of each apartment a wire screen frame 
is fastened to the sliding floor in order to jjrevent the guinea 
pigs from jumjjing out. 

This greatly simplifies the cleaning out of the hutches, 

2^ 



since after removino^ the guinea pi^'s, the draw may be taken 
out. the Htter and dirt scraped ofif and then replaced. 

Should the hutch be kept in a place where it is possible 
for cats or dogs to injure the stock, it is advisable to have doors 
on the front of the hutch. (Fig. 12.) 

It is not advisable to use this style of hutch for breeding 
purposes, since every time the draw is moved the breeding 
sows are jarred. This is liable to cause premature or still- 
i)irth. It is better to use this type of hutch as weaning pens. 

The pen type of enclosure is used more extensively by 
large raisers where the expense of construction is a consid- 
eration. Pens also have the advantage of being easier to clean 
and the stock may more quickly be fed in same. 

There are two styles of pens mostly in use, the open run 
pen and the tier pen. Tier pens are more widely used by 
guinea pig raisers than any other kind of enclosure, although 
the open run style is also largely used, especially by laborator- 
ies, which hold a reserve stock for experimentation. 

These are practically the cheapest enclosures that can be 
1)uilt for guinea pigs. They are also especially handy for feed- 
ing, since the attendant has no doors to open or close when 
feeding. Figure 13 is an illustration of this style of pens. It 
is an arrangement of two decks, of five runs each, the floor of 
the upper being about 4 feet above that of the lower. The 
space between the decks is open and the w^alls of the runs are 
made of boards a foot wide. Each run is 5 feet long and from 
20 inches to 2 feet in width. Ten runs are shown in the figure, 
but the number may be multiplied or the size modified to suit 
the space available. 

Tier pens are similar to tier or story hutches, with the 
exception of being fastened to the building, or if not fastened 

24 



being so cumbersome and unwieldy that they could not be 
moved without being taken apart. While the bulkiness of 
these pens is a disadvantage in case they are to be moved, 
nevertheless their advantages lie in the cheapness and readi- 
ness wnth which they may be built. 

Since this style of enclosure is so widely used, w^e are 
c'escribing beloW' in detail the construction of a set of eight 
pens. Additional sections may be built by repeating the same 
ccHistruction on the sides or by cutting the lengths of lumber 
so as to build all of the sections at one time. If hutches are 
to l)e built instead of pens, there must be double uprights be- 
tween each section, so as to allow for the separating of each 
section, and the boards must all be cut to fit a single section. 




FJo i:?- 



-0|>en Run Pens 



iptatl dauatrurttnu of Strr Pnta 



Material re(iuired to construct a two-sectional pen with 
fotu" apartments in each: 

Three boards, 14 feet long, 12 inches wide, 1 inch thick. 

Seven boards, 18 feet long, 12 inches wide, 1 inch thick. 

One board, 9 feet long, 12 inches wide, 1 inch thick. 

Eight strips, 12 feet long, 2 inches wide, 1 inch thick, 
l)l;ined. 

25 



Three stri])s, 18 feet long', 2 inches wide, 1 inch thick, 
phmed. 

Four strii)S, 10 feet lon^-, 2 inches wide, 1 inch thick, 
pkmed. 

Fifty-four running feet of 18-inch wire. 

Eight pairs of hinges. 

Fight turn 1)uckles, nails, staples, etc. 

(Euustrurtinu nf S^rantf 

Cut the three 14-foot boards in half, making six 7-foot 
boards. Cut three of the 18-foot, 12-inch wide boards in half, 
making six 9-foot boards. Cut the remaining 18-foot, 12-inch 
wide boards into 4 feet, 4)/2-inch lengths, making sixteen 
boards 4 feet, 4^ inches in length, and four pieces of waste 6 
inches in length. Cut the four 10-foot, 2-inch wide strips into 
twenty 2-foot lengths. 

Cut 18 feet of the 54 feet of 18-inch wire in half, making 
'M^ feet of 9-inch wire. 

Cut the 'M] feet of 9-inch wire into eight pieces 4//^ feet by 
9 inches. 

Aasrmbltnij nf IFrcimr 

Lay two of the 7-foot boards on the door, with lengths 
together, cleat them together with hve of the 2-foot lengths 
(cleats marked by letter A in cross section, Fig. 14). The first 
cleat should be 10 inches from one end and the rest 16 inches 
apart. Repeat this with tw^o more of the 7-foot boards, cleat- 
ing on the opposite side. Join the remaining 7-foot boards 
together, cleating on both sices. These 7-foot lengths are the 
uprights of the pens (marked B in the cross section and eleva- 
tion). The two which are cleated on only one side are the 
end u])rights. The one cleated on both sides is the middle 
upright. 

The uprights are now held in position, the end from which 
the first cleat is ten inches away being i)laced to the lloor. 
The sixteen 4-foot, 4)^-inch lengths are now nailed to the 
upper side of the lower four cleats, thereby joining i.he uprights 
together and forming a sort of shelf-like arrangement. 

26 





rosnsEnn 



^i|^p'V'.\x)AA;'v^Cg 



»-3i 



- IZ 

B 




<0 



iBw |'7;i;niiu>.v >,S^^-^>;'-'-^^j^^ 




Fi". 1 4 — ^{"oiistruciion of Tier Pens 



27 



Two 9-foot boards are nailed to the top, forming a cover- 
ing for the uppermost apartments. The remaining four 9-foot 
boards are nailed to the back of this shelf-like arrangement, 
each board being flush with the bottom of the floor recently 
placed in position. This gives a 6-inch space at the back of 
each apartment for ventilation (marked in cross section). 
Fasten over each of these ventilation openings, with staples, 
one of the 4^-foot by 9-inch pieces of wire. 

(EnuBtrurting Ihr imirB 

Cut the eight 12-foot long, 2-inch wide strips into sixteen 
lengths 4j/2 feet long and sixteen lengths 1>2 feet long. By 
cutting a 12-foot strip three times, two of the 4yj-foot lengths 
and two of the l^^-foot lengths may be had. Join two 4^2-foot 
lengths and two lJ/2-foot lengths in a rectangular form, square 
at each corner, the longest lengths parallel and the shortest 
parallel. The lengths may be Joined together by halving the 
corners or by using angle irons or corrugated joint fasteners. 
Cut the 36 feet of 18-inch wire into strips 4>< feet in length, 
fastening one by staples to each of the rectangular frames. It 
may be necessary to trim some of the wire off so that it will 
set within the outer edges of the rectangular frame. 

3Ftmabtug 

Cut two of the 18-foot long, 2-inch wide strips in half. 
making four 9-foot strips. 

Cut the remaining 18-foot strips into 17-inch lengths. 
These lengths are used as facing for the shelf frame recently 
finished. The four 9-foot strips are nailed horizontally on the 
front, as shown in drawing (marked C in elevation) ; the 17- 
inch lengths are nailed vertically (marked D in elevation ). To 
complete the pens all that is now necessary is to fasten the 
doors t(~» the shelf frame with hinges, screw on the tlnim') 
Inickles and nail on the bottom board (marked 1( in elevatior. ). 




28 



:~ CHAE^TER IV 

Guinea pig;s are vegetarians and thrive on beets, carrots, 
cabbag:e, lettuce, celery, corn husk (green or dry),. cauliflower 
and all kinds of grasses such as plantain leaf, wild carrot- 
clover, lawn grass, meadow g-rass, dandelion, fall grass or 
U'ild millet; in fact, most any kind of vegetable growth that is 
not of too starchy a composition. Starchy foods do not agree 
with guinea pigs; in fact, most guinea pigs refuse such food 
when other is available. F'or this reason all food of sweet 
nature must be omitted from their diet, corn in any form, als(v 
potatoes or potato parings, etc. 

Grass is the best food that can be obtained for guinea pigs: 
it is also the least expensive, the only expense being that of 
gathering. In the early spring, young dandelion can be se- 
cured, the other grasses following in their season during the 
summer, ending in the fall with wild millet. 

Bran and oats should be fed once a day, either separate or 
mixed. Bran is good for mothers which are nursing young*, 
as it is a great milk producer. It is also very fattening. Oats 
make the guinea pigs strong and' thrifty, as they are a pro- 
ducer of muscles. 

During the winter roots must be depended on for our 
food, and on what green food can be obtained, such as lettuce, 
cauliflower, cabbage, celery, etc. Hay should always lie fed, 
especially when feeding an amount of green food, so as to* 
balance the ration of dry food with wet. The balance of ration 
requ'red In the feeding of guinea pigs may be described as the 
proport'onal amount of dry food fed with w^et food so as t<» 
produce a fluid in their digestive system, which wiH readily 
be absorbed and taken into the blood. The proportion of drv 
to wet required may vary according to the location, environ- 
ment and with the different seasons. It is very evident that 
\n warmer climates the proportion of wet food to dry would 
be greater than in cooler climates: similarly in the summer 

29 



the proportion of wet to dry would be greater than in whiter. 
Many breeuers in summer even go so far as to feed nothing' 
but grass to their stock, and with good results. When this 
balance of ration is broken, that is, too much wet food and 
not sufficient dry, indigestion, diarrhoea and bowel trouble 
usually result. Those who may be in doubt and find their 
stock inclined to diarrhoea will always find it much safer to 
feed an overamount of hay rather than insufficient. 

Clover hay is the best that can be obtained for guinea 
pigs, although there is considerable waste with clover from 
dust. A good, clean, mixed hay is usually as good and is 
much more saving. 

Guinea pigs should be fed at least twice a day and prefer- 
ably three times. During the summer season for their morn- 
ing meal feed grass ; at noon grains, and in the evening another 
feed of grass and a little hay. 

During the winter season, in the morning feed roots and 
greens, at noon grains and in the evening more roots and 
greens, also plenty of hay. Mangel beets, also known as 
mangel-wurzels and cow beets, are a very nourishing and 
inexpensive root for winter food. 

Carrots are very valuable for guinea pigs, especially as 
a blood tonic, but should never be fed exclusively as the wet 
food. The overfeeding of carrots sometimes results in the 
overabundance of blood, followed by the rushing of the blood 
to the head and vertigo. The guinea pigs will always thrive 
better when given a variety of wet food in preference to any 
single root or green food. For example, beets, hay and grains 
alone would not be as nutritious nor beneficial as beets, car- 
rots, cabbage, hay and grains. Similarly, when feeding grass 
in the summer a variety of grasses is always preferable. Even 
some of our most detested weeds — such as wild carrot, plantain 
leaf, ragweed, lambs' quarters, ragged sailor, etc. — mixed with 
the grass prove not only beneficial, but also of great medicinal 
value to weak or rundown stock. 

In changing from roots to grass, care should be taken 
that not too much grass be fed all at once, or diarrhoea and 
other bowel trouble may result. The grass should be fed grad- 

30 



ually, one handful the first day to a pen, along with the 
other food ; two handsful the second, three the third day, etc., 
until the guinea pigs finally become accustomed to their sum- 
mer food. 

maturing 

Guinea pigs will thrive well with or without water. If 
no water is given, the attendant should feed plenty of roots 
and green foods, from which the necessary moisture may be 
had. When water is used, the attendant should carefully clean 
the containers each time before fresh water is placed in them. 

Giving guinea pigs water has many disadvantages, and 
when it can be avoided it usually is. Quite naturally it neces- 
sitates considerable extra work. It makes the pens damp and 
dirty, unless they are cleaned quite frequently, whereas they 
should be dry and clean. Dampness is very injurious to 
guinea pigs. By examining the sole of a guinea pig's foot, it 
will be noticed that only a very thin skin protects the flesh. If 
the litter on which the guinea pig walks is damp, the chill 
caused by the dampness is quickly transmitted through the 
thin covering of the guinea pig's foot into his body. This con- 
dition is very similar to that of a person who walks about all 
day with wet feet. The guinea pig's feet are undoubtedly wet 
after standing on the damp bedding any length of time. How 
many people can walk about all day with wet feet without 
taking a cold? Still, many raisers who neglect to overcome 
damjjness in their pens are surprised when their stock dies 
off with cold and pneumonia. 

A further disadvantage of giving water is that the guinea 
p!gs arc usually compelled to drink dirty water caused by 
others jumping into it and carrying the dirt on their feet. This, 
of course, may !)e remedied b}^ arranging a water trough which 
the guinea pigs cannot jump into. An earthenware plate, with 
c'l can or flower i)ot inverted in it, with holes through which 
the water may flow, makes a convenient container for water. 

Water, of course, also has its advantages. AVithout 
'oubt it keej^s the stock more comfortable and contented dur- 
ing warm weather, which is very advantageous for their breed- 
ing. It proc'uces a bright, shining gloss on their coat, which 

J1 



is valuable m e.xhibitmg. It supplies the stock with mauy 
minerals which are dissolved hi it, and which otherwise must 
i)e artihcially supplied. Many raisers who do not water their 
i^iiinea pii^"s and fail to supply the lacking- auinerals often com- 
plain of the older guinea! 'pigs eating their young. This is 
caused by the guinea pig craving for the lacking constituents 
wliich under uonuai conditions may be had from the water. 
The blood, muscle and bone construction of the young offer 
a means of securing these constituents to which they turn in 
their barbaric craving. When water is supplied a small piece 
of rock salt, kept in a corner of the pen, is good for the guinea 
1'igs. 




A pairof White Ku^lisli Cavies bred in the Muuny 8(ate ol (Jallforuia 



32 



CHAPTER V 

SiBttuguiBhiiui ll|r Bex 

On receiving: a shipment of guinea pig's place them in dry 
quarters and feed moderately. Should the shipment consist 
of more than one male, divide the females into as many groups 
as you have males, keeping one male with each lot. 

Two or more breeding males should never he left together 
for the reason they will tight. This causes a disturbance in 
the breeding pen which is very detrimental to' their breeding. 
The male guinea pig or boar, as he is knovv.i to guinea pig 
raisers, may be distinguished from the females by his superi- 
ority and frequent growling. 




OntKido viVu'of « w-pJI f-€nisij n tried Cfi^inty f*nd Us pvnrrif<nr 

Should you have several male guinea pigs in your ship- 
ment and be in doubt, assort out those you believe to be the 
males and place them together in a separate pen. If your 
judgment was correct a tight will soon start for the superiority 
of the pen. 

33 



Never use your hands to separate large male guinea pigs 
wliicli are fighting, as it is dangerous. In their hniging at each 
otlier your hand may be in the way and receive the thrust 
intended for the other guinea pig. A hoard is niucli safer to 
sei^arate enraged males. This is the only time guinea ])igs are 
Hable to bite and then the intention is not to V)ite their kee])er, 
but rather the other male. 

The most accurate way of distinguishing the sex is by 
examination. The testicles of the matured male show very 
plain. 




A set of neatly constructed Hutches made 
from old packin;^ boxes 




CHAPTER VI 

Guinea pig's are very prolific, having f-rom four to five li-t- 
ters of young a year, and from one to seven young- at a litter. 

They are polygamistic in nature, one male being sufficient 
to mate with as many as ten females. Of course, smaller num- 
bers ma}^ also be mated, although a limit should be placed at 
the mating of 3 females to a male, since the mating of only 
one or two females to a male is liable to cause unrest or else 
stagnation in the male; while the restless male may also cause 
some sexual injuries to the females. 

A female guinea pig is sexually matured when about 6 
weeks old, the male when about 2 months old. They may be 
mated at this age or kept apart until older, this depending on 
whether they are to be bred for fancy or commercial purposes. 

The period of gestation is from 65 to 70 days. The sow 
about to have young will show her condition by becoming 
very large, from a week to two before giving birth. It is 
always advisable to handle them, when in this condition, as 
little as possible. When it is necessary to handle a sow about 
to have young, one hand should grasp the guinea pig about the 
neck, while the other be placed under the stomach so as to 
relieve in moving them the strain of their unusual weight. 

It is notnecessar}' to separate the sexes when the sow is 
about to have young, since the male will not harm the babies. 

Should the sexes be separated, two pregnant females 
should never be kept together, for they are liable to become 
antag'onistic in the absence of the male and do each other con- 
siderable harm. 

The young are born with their eyes open, fully furred, 
lively and active. At several hours old, they may often be 
seen running about the pen and have often been noticed, when 
not a day old, eating the same food as the older guinea pigs. 
Since guinea pigs have only two mammae a sow having a 
large litter is often unable to nourish them all unless she is 

35 



placed in the pen with a sow having a small lit'tef. Guinea 
]:)ig"s will nurse each other's young disregardlessly ; conse- 
c|uently the sow with the small litter will help raise part of 
the y(Hing from the large litter. 

The young guinea pigs depend on their mother for most 
of their nourishment until they are past three weeks old. The 
mother ceases to nurse the young at this age. The youngsters 
should then be removed from the breeding pen. This should 
be attended to promptly, for the older young which have not 
been taken out are liable to steal the nourishment from the 
mothers of some younger guinea pigs. The weaned young- 
sters should be placed in long runs, each sex by itself. It is 
very unadvisable in weaning to keep several sizes of young- 
sters together, as the stronger are liable to fight and injure the 
weaker ones. 

ICiur-lSrfpiiiutj 

The mating of father to daughter, or mother to son, is 
known as line-breeding. While Ime-breeding has its disad- 
\antages as well as advantages, nevertheless it is extensively 
used by many large fanciers to perfect their stock. 

V hould a fancier have an extra fine prize-winning male, 
(juite naturally he would be desirous to have as much of the 
quality of the male as possible in his young stock. His female 
guinea pigs may not be on a par with his stud, consequently 
the ordinary method of mating and breeding would not pro- 
duce the desired results. By breeding this male with the best 
sow he may have, remate after the first generation with the 
best youngsters bred from his first mating, and again remate 
with the best offspring from the second mating, gradually 
more and more blood of the prize-winning male will be fused 
into the stock. For example, the offspring of the first mating 
should show at least 50% of the male's points of perfection, 
the second mating 75% of the male's points, the third mating 
87^^% of the male's points. 

dd^e danger in line-breeding is in the selection of the stud 
(;r sow to be line bred. Should inferior stock be selected, the 

36 



inferiority will l^e multiplied in tlie young at tlie same rate as 
the points of perfection. 

The Line-breeding Chart, Figure 15, will enable the 
reader to more thoroughly understand the principle of line- 
l)reedijag\ 



Teazle 



Halt 




Fii. 15— Line Breeding Chart 

Having selected our boar and sow from which we expect 
(lo perfect a strain, we will mate them as shuv\/n in the illustra- 
tion. Sow No. 1 mated with boar No. 2 will produce Group 
No. o, which cojitain.s half the lilood of the original boar and 
sow. 

Now mate the best sow from Group No. 3 back to the 
•original boar and this will produce Group Ni>. 5, which repre- 
sents three-fourths the blood of the original boar and one^ 
fourth the blood of the original sow. 

When the original sow is of greater perfection than the 
male, naturally the breeder wants as much of her strain in 

37 



the young" as possible. By mating- the best boar of Group No. 
)> to the original sow, Group No. 4 will be produced, which 
contains three-fourths the blood of the original sow and one- 
fourth the blood of the original boar. 

Mate the sows from Group No. 4 together with the boars 
from Group No. 5, or vice versa, and you will have Group No. 
7, which represents exactly half the blood of the original pair. 
This is the first advanced step in perfecting a strain by line- 
breeding. 

Now mate the sow from Group No. 5 back to original 
boar No. 2 and produce Group No. 8, which is seven-eighths- 
the blood of the original boar No. 2. A boar from Group No. 
-i- mated back to the original sow No. 1 produces group No. 6, 
that is seven-eighths the blood of the original sow, and one- 
eighth the blood of the original boar. 

Now select the best boar from Group No. 8 and the sows 
from Group No. 6 and produce Group No. 11, which contains 
one-half the blood of each of the original pair. This is the 
second advanced step and the seventh mating in securing: com- 
plete breeding of a new strain. 

Our object in line-breeding is to produce a line of stock 
that is virtually the same as either the sow or the boar as 
desired. To accomplish this select a boar from Group No. 6 
and mate him to the sow of Group No. 4 and produce Group 
No. 9, which is thirteen-sixteenths the blood of the original 
sow No. 1 and three-sixteenths the blood of the original boar. 

Again select a boar from Group No. 9 and a sow from 
Group No. 11, which will produce Group No. 14, which is 
twenty-one thirty-seconds the blood of -the original sow. 

Now mate a boar from Group No. 13, which is thirteen- 
sixteenth the blood of the original boar No. 2, to the sows of 
r,roup Xo. 10, which are five-sixteenths the blood of the orig- 
inal boar, and produce Group No. 17, which is nine-sixteenths 
the blood of the said boar, while in No. 16 we have the new 
strain and in Group No. 18 the strain of our original boar. 

Remember that the dotted line represents the sow selec- 
tion and the solid line the boar selection. 

3ln-^ rf rliittg 

Care should [)e taken to avoid the mating" of brother to 
sister, commonly known as in-breeding, as this is liable to 

38 



deg-enerate tlie quality and vitality ot tlie stock. The breedin^^ 
males should be changed about once a year, as the fusing of 
new blood into a herd is most advantageous, for nor only 
does it raise the quality of the young, but also stimulates the 
breeding. 

In-breeding is occasionally used by fanciers to obtain 
certain desired specimens. A novice, however, should never 
attempt this method, for it requires constant vigilance on the 
part of the breeder in watching for the first signs of deteriora- 
tion and the correct cross-breeding when such deterioration in 
'the yoimg is noticed. 

Cross-breeding is the mating of certain desired boars with 
unrelated sows. It is the most widely used method of breed- 
ing, whether the raiser is breeding to produce certain desired 
specimens or if just for commercial purposes. Ninety-tive per 
cent, of all commercial-bred guinea pigs arc cross-bred, the 
raiser selecting strong, thrifty boars usually without regard 
to color or shape, to mate with unrelated sows. 

Of course, when the raiser is breeding for desired strains, 
selection of the si)ecimens to be bred is very important. For 
example, suppose the raiser is endeavoring to produce a strain 
^li good red stock, but has no such stock to breed from. By 
selecting a boar having red markings and mating with a sow 
tilso marked with red, the first litter should contain at least 
^)ne youngster which is mostly red. By mating this youngster 
when he is of the proper age with a guinea pig as near all red 
<i.s possible, at least one, if not more, of their young should he 
solid red in color. It is possible these results may not be 
•obtained In the first litter, but eventually after several matings 
'the solid ted cavy should be produced. 

Now, if the raiser desires to produce a strain of reds he 
must resort to line-breeding, for it is very doubtful if the red 
youngsters produced by selection in cross-breeding of broken 
colored stock will continue to l)recd true to color, if cross- 
breeding is continued. 

Selection in cross-breeding of broken cohvred stock, fol- 
lowed by line-breeding, will produce almost any of the various 
self-colored guinea pigs. 

39 



CCfprt of tftr JttfVrpttt tiartPtirB of ^uwra l^x^ 



-01 

'5 







j-"^ 




White 








Red 








Cream 






Self Colors 


Black 

Golden Yellow 








Chocolate 


x^ 






Smoke Black 


Eng-h'sh Vanetfes 


Ag'oaties- 


Golden 
Silver 


(Smooth Short Fur) 




Steel Blue 


; 




Dutch Alark-ed JBlack 


\ 




, Cream 

V 

Himalaya 11 


1 




Brindles 
Tortoise 
Tortoise and White: 








(Red 
White 
Cream; 




Af)3'.ssmvan.9 




Black 
Chocolate 
Broken Colore 








r^White 


! 






Ked 




I'ertxvian^ 


- 


Creams 
Blacks 








Broken Colore 

( Whites 
Reds 




Perriviau Silkies 




Cream 








Black 


\ 






Broken Colore 








40 





CHAPTER VII 

There are four different varieties of guinea pigs, the "Eng- 
lish," or smooth-haired variety; the "Abyssinian," or rosette 
variety; the "Peruvian," or long-haired variety, and the "Peru- 
vian Silkies," or long-haired w^ith smooth-faced variety. 

The English is the most popular and numerous variety in 
the cavy family undoubtedly because it is the oldest, if not the 
nearest, in resemblance to the original guinea pigs which were 
imported i'nto Europe. 

The head and shoulders of the English cavy should be 
heavy, neck short, the nose Roman, ears drooping, the eyes 
large and bold, and the hair short, smooth and regular. 
Uneven ur .shaggy hair indicates a poor specimen of this 
\-ariety. 

The English variety has the greatest number of distinct 
cohn' and marked specimens. To it belong the self-colored 
reds, blacks, creams, whites, chocolates, the marked specimens, 
such as the tortoise shell, tortoise and white. Dutch, Hima- 
Layan, lirindle, agouti, etc. 

Harks 

This variety is undoubtedly one of the most attractive of 
'the self-colors. A jet raven black in color, from the tip of the 
hw to ihe base, nuirks the well-bred, self-colored black. The 
coat should be hue and sleek and full of lustre. Blacks in 
breeding often have a tendency to throw red and sometimes 
white specimens. While the red and white do not usually 
appear in large spots, <\ single hair or two is sufficient to 
'destroy the value of the self-colored black as a fancy bred 
.:^"uinea pig. 

Self-colored whites are more extensively bred than any 
v)f our fanc3^ guinea j)igs. While ])lenty of whites ar appar- 

41 



ently white g'uinea pi\G^s may be had. a pure white is not as 
common as may at hrst be imag-ined. The pure white guinea 
pig, in addition to complying with the general requirements 
of the Enghsh guinea pigs, must i)e absolutely white all over, 
with white hair on the outside o£ the ear and a pinkish flesh 
color to the skin both inside and outside of the ear, clear pink 
eyes and white nose and feet. The self-colored white is often 
referred to as the albano of the guinea pigs. 

The self-colored red is of a dark, deep, rich red in color, 
very much the color of a ripe toniato. The ears and feet should 
also be red and the eyes large and bold. There is a tendency 
for reds to breed to a lighter color red, which greatly destroys 
their value. 

The cream-colored cavy, as its name indicates, is cream in 
color, the coior exten^nig au over its booy from the tip of its 
ears to its toes, 'i Lie color snouid not be too lignt nor too near 
an orange, but of meciiuni rich cream. The eyes are black and 
bold. 




Self Colored Cienm Kn^Iisk Cavy 



fn England the cream cavy first came into distinction 
itndcr the name of the ''Devonshire Cream." The Eu«dish 
fanciers have developed this variety of the cavy family to a 

42 



very liigli standard of perfection. By keeping a lew good reds 
and whites, the cream raiser may easily regulate the color of 
his stock. Should they breed too light he can cross his sow^s 
for one mating with a red boar; should they breed too near the 
orange he can use a w^hite boar. 

For years the cream cavies. which have bred too deep a 
yellow or near an orange, have been disregarded and sold as 
culls. Recently a few raisers have taken a fancy to this shade 
and endeavored to perfect it into a standard breed. It seems 
a shame that this variety has been neglected, since a pen of 
golden yellow cavies is as pretty as any of the other varieties. 
The color is a deep yellow wMth a golden blend to it. The ears, 
shape, etc., should follow the general standards of the English 
cavies. 

(Ebornlatpfl 

The chocolate color cavy is another variety which is in 
the embryo of perfectioii. The color resembles a fresh cake of 
chocolate and extends all over its body, ears and toes. As with 
all the self colors, the color should extend from the tip of the 
hairs well into the skin, 

Tliese are the least perfected of the self-colored cavies. 
Considerable experimental breeding will have to be done 
before this variety can rightly claim the name of the blue 
self-colored cavy. A more appropriate name for most of the 
specimens now exhibited would be "Smoke P>lack," fof they 
resemble more of a faded, slatey black than they do a blue. 
There is, how^ever, the rudi'nlentar}^ making of a blue in these 
slatey blacks, which, when once perfected, undoubtedly will 
far surpass all of the self colors for beauty and popularity. 

Butrb ilairkrb 

This variety is undoubtedly the most popular of the 
marked English cavies. It resembles the markings of the 
Dutch rabbit. Its color is either black and white, red and 

43 



white or any other self-color marked with white. The solid 
colors must be typical of the parts they cover and be distinct- 
ively separated from the white. There should be a distinct 
line of separation between each and both the solid colors and 
white should be free from foreig;n hairs. 

The hind portions of the Dutch should be of the solid 
color, except the tips of the hind feet, which are white. A 
circle of white or saddle, as- it is known, should extend around 
the middle of the body and under the jaw. The front feet are 
white. The ears and a patch covering both sides of the face 
and jowls are marked with the solid color, with a blaze of 
white running- down the midcle of the face over the nose, join- 
ing' with the white under the jaw. 




Self Colored Keel English Cavy 

The Dutch marked variety is by no uTeans easy to perfect' 
(o the standards, but despite this the fanciers of today give 
considerable of their time and space to this variety- 

44 



As with the Dutch-marked guniea pile's tlie IlinialayaiV; 
follow the markings of the Himalayan rabbit. The entire 
body of the Himalayan guinea pig" is white without any bliic': 
hairs mixed in it. The nose, ears and feet are a ceep l)lack. 
The patch of black over the nOvSe should be fairly large, cover- 
ing the entire nose and extend half way up the face of the 
guinea pig. The Himalayans are considerably easier t(^ pro- 
duce than the Dutch-marked, the main points being t(^ have 
the black markings of good color and in c'istinct piitche:.. 

(JnrtniBr^S'hrU 

Tortoise-shell cavies are of two .colors — l)lack and red— ^ 
the colors being in equal patches distributed over the bo'y. 
The patches of black must be distinctively separated from the 
patches of red with no intermixing hairs of cither red 1:1 the 
black or black in the redv 

3ortutHP au& Hhttp 

Tortoise-and-white, or the tri-colored envy, as they r;re 
frequently referred to, is one of the prettiest of our broken- 
colored cavies. Resembling the tortoise-shell cavy, it i'5 
marked by evenly-sized patches, in this case, however. l)eing 
<)i three colors— red, black and white. There are thousands 
of three-colored guinea pigs about, even among the Utility 
stock, but the tortoise-and-white must have the j^atches equpJ 
in size as near as possible in order to ap])roacIi tlie standard cf 
perfectioiiv 

Arnault 

The agouti tavies resemljle more the wild specimens of 
guinea pigs; despite this they are in great deman 1 Ijy the 
fancier and usually bring high prices. There are three differ- 
ent colored agoutis- — the gray or silver agouti, the golden 
agouti and the steel blue agouti. 

The silver agouti is covered evenly over the l^ody. head 
and legs with gray hairs intermixed with lighl cream ones, 
The stomach is of a solid color, a grayish color blenc'ing oil- 
toward a cream. 

4.^ 



The golden agouti is covered with brownish hairs, inter- 
mixed with red ones, giving the cavy a brownish golden hue. 
The stomach is a deep red color. 

The steel blue agouti is the latest perfection in the agouti 
group. The fur of this variety, instead of being a mixture of 
gray and cream, or brown and red hairs, is of a light blue and 
white with the stomach coat of grayish l)lue. The steel blue is 
the rarest of all the different varieties and without doubt the 
most beautiful. 

The brindle-colored cavy is the result of crossing between 
reds and blacks. They were developed and perfected in Eng- 
land, where they still retain considerable popularity. This 
Variety, however, has never attracted much attention of fan- 
ciers in America and is rarely seen or heard of. The coat of 
the brindle cavy is intermixed with red and black hairs. It 
should not have any distinct patches. 

Abifastntans 

The Abyssinians or rosette variety differs from the Eng'- 
lish in having a ruffled coat of fur and being slightly larger. 
Correctly the Abyssinian is no larger than the English cavy, 
but the ruffled coat g'ives them this optional illusion. The 
!)ody and head of the Abyssinian are covered with a number of 
rosettes or circular bunch of hair. The more rosettes on a 
specimen the better is its quality. The standards of this breed 
give sixty points to the coat, rosettes and the quality of the 
fur, while only twenty to shape and size. In some as many 
as fifteen rosettes are to be found on a single animal. 

In caring for the Abyssinian cavy the hair is brushed 
toward the head and each of the rosettes shaped up with a 
small brush. 

The Abyssinian may be bred in almost all the colors and 
markings as the English cavy — in fact, whenever a variety 
found in the English class is desired it may usually be pro- 
duced by breeding an English sow of the desired variety with 
an Abyssinian boar as near the ccdor markings desired as 
})()ssiblc, then 1)y a selection of the young and a process of line 

46 



and cross-breeding;' the variety cesired can invariably be pro- 
duced. The self-colors, h(,wcver, are the most popular. 

Outside hutches are the liest for this s]:)ecies, since the 
cold develops the ruffled hair of this varietv. 



, <^»?*^li WJ,it 



lV« 



^k* 



c 




<jl .. 



.\l> 



>K ■ niiK C>« ' 



The Peruvians are the loni^-haired \ariety and are brt-d 
exclusively for exhil)ition or as pets. It is by rio means the 
easiest cavy to raise,' since consideral)le patience and ex])eri- 
ence are recpiired in the care of the coat, 't he texture an i ;>ilk:- 
ness of the hair are the desired characteristics of this breed — in 
fact, out of the hundred points of perfection. fifty-!ivc are c e- 
voted to the leni^lh and (juality of the hair. It is fre(|Uently dif- 
ficult to distini^'uish the head from the hin:'(|u irters of the I V'rri- 
vian, since the hair Sj)reads over the head and face tlie same as 
it does o\-er all tb.e other ])arts of the bo. y. ( )f course, thg 
Peru\-ian. with iis .^reat coat of hair, is apparentl.x- murh laig":] 

47 



than citlier the Kngiish or the Ahyssiiih'in. It is bred m cohji'S 
cbovit the same as the Abyssinian. 




AVIiite I'eruvian Cnvy 

The i'enuian cannot withstand much cLampnes,^. l)ecaitse 
its coal a])pears to al)S()r1) moisture, which endang'ers itS" 
heahli, conse(]uently indoor hutches should only be used- 
Straw cu': in (i-inch lenoths and free froni chaff and dust makes 



48 



the best bedding", much better than sawdust or hay, since the 
latter works into the long hair and becomes tangled. When 
the hair reaches the length of six or seven inches it should 
be put up in "crimpers," such as women use in their hair, or 
plaited, to protect the coat from- injury. The hair may be 
taken down at times, brushed well and put up again. Stock 
intended for exhibition should be kept in individual hutches, 
since if kept together they are liable to nibble each other's coat 
and destroy their value. 

While breeding the coats should be clipped, as the long 
hair not only annoys the breeders and becomes matted, but 
also interferes with the various duties they have to perform. 

The Peruvian silkie is a combination of the Peruvian and 
the English. Its head and face are covered with the smooth, 
short hair of the English cavy, while its body is covered with 
the long hair of the Peruvian. The same care and attention 
required by the Peruvian apply to this variety. The Peru- 
vian silkie resembles more of a guinea pig than the Peruvian, 
since it has a visible head instead of being just a mass of haif 
spreading in all directions. 




49 



ss 
■d 

s 







50 



CHAPTER VIII 



tflraiiiuu 

r7uinea pigs will never thrive on a wet or damj) lloor (^r 
on damp bedding. For this reason sawdust, shavings, ground 
cork, chaff or the sweepings from a hayloft should alwavs he 
kept in the pens as bedding. When sawdust or shavings nre 
used, care must be taken not to use any made from unseasoned 
hardwood, as sows in profit often eat their bedding in tlie 
great hunger wdiich ahvays accompanies that C(>nd.iti.)n. 
Should they eat the sawdust shavings from unse;isoi!ed 
hardwood, the terpines and acids contained on the wo(k1 are 
liable to act on the stomach and intestines. Premature birth, 
sickness and sometimes death result. 

A\'hen cleaning the hutches all guinea pigs should be re- 
moved, as they crowd each other in the corners through excite- 
ment when the litter is removed. This is liable to cause injury 
to sows al)OUt to have young or to 1)a])ies in the pen. 

As it is always advisable to handle ]>reeding guinea i)igs 
as little as possil)le, a very good contrivance for removing them 
may be made from an ordinary box al)out half the size of the 
pen, the one end of the box being constructed as a door. Fig- 
ure 16 shows construction. The box is ]daced in breeding ])en 
about to be cleaned out, the door raised to allow the guinea 
pigs to pass through and lowered when the last has entered 
the box. A small amount of food may be ])laced in the box 
to attract the guinea pigs into it. The l)ox is then taken from 
the pen, the litter removed, pen disinfected, fresh bedding 
placed in and guinea pigs replaced by raising door of box after 
it has once more been carefully placed in the freshly bedded 
pen. During all this operation the guinea ])igs have not been 
handled once nor unnecessarily excited. 

After all damp litter has been removed and before fresh 
bedding is placed in the pen, a 20', solution of creolin should 
be sprayed into every part so as to thoroughly disinfect the 

51 



I)en. Once each month the floor should be whitewashed with 
lime so as to absorb all moisture that may have saturated the 
wood. The whitewashing of the sides is also very healthful 
and beneficial. 

Pens should be cleaned at least once every week when 
guinea pigs are not being watered. When water is kept before 
them it is necessary to clean every other day. 




Figure 16 
Carrier for MoTin^ Guinea Pi^s 



52 



CHAPTER IX 

iiraliug anb Mrnlilaltng 

Many beginners believe because guinea pigs are native to 
a tropical climate they will perish in a cold temperature. 
Guinea pigs will thrive in a cold temperature as well as a 
warm, providing it is not variable and is free from drafts and 
dampness. They cannot stand drafts, dampness or an extreme 
variation in temperature. Many raisers have been known to 
keep their stock all winter without artificial heat and have 
good results. Raising guinea pigs without heat in the winter 
months requires careful attention since they are much more 
susceptible to draft and damps than those raised with artificial 
heat. A small box or hover kept in the breeding pen under 
these conditions is a great protection to the guinea pigs. The 
hover may be made from a soap box, by knocking out the front 
and tacking burlap or cloth in its place. The l)urlap should 
be cut at the bottom into strips so that the guinea pigs may 
readily go under the box when it is too cold in the pen. 

Most raisers prefer artificial heat since the breeding is 
somewhat better. A temperature betwen 65° and 80° is best 
for the guinea pig to thrive in. Care should be taken to pre- 
vent a sudden drop in the temperature, as may be caused by 
the fire going out. This will invariably cause colds among 
the guinea pigs. 

A constant supply of good, fresh air should always circu- 
late through the guinea pig house. Since foul air ascends, ven- 
tilation holes should l)e made in the side of the house near the 
roof, so as to carry the foul air out. In cold weather, should 
the guinea pigs be accustomed to artificial heat, the fresh air 
that enters should be heated. This is most conveniently done 
by having the heater placed near the window or space through 
which the fresh air is to enter. 

53 








fO. 





Hi 




54 



CHAPTER X 

The general hardiness of the guniea pig' and his unusual 
vilahty have been the phenomena of the pet stock world for 
years. For such a small animal to live, thrive and multiply as 
rapidly as he does without being subject to frequent and nu- 
merous diseases is really remarkable. Most animals which 
multiply rapidly are either delicate or else the victims of nu- 
merous diseases. The guinea pig, however, has proven thai he 
can live and thrive in almost any locality, either in the warm, 
liot climate or in the cold; he can survive hunger and starva- 
tion — in fact, he can even stand a certain amount of abuse. 

There is a limit, however, to everything, and the guinea 
pig has his breaking point, despite his remarkable hardiness. 
All living beings, whether animal or human, no matter how 
hardy they may be, will succumb to sickness if continually 
neglected, if kept with or near diseased animals or if kept 
under unfavorable conditions. 

No human nor animal could lie or stand for hours in a 
draft without taking a cold, nor can a guinea pig; no human 
being can walk about for days or even a day with wet feet, nor 
can a guinea pig; live, sleep and eat on sloppy, wet bedding, 
nor can any person endure sudden changes of temperature 
such as going out in the open during cold weather in the 
same clothes he wore while in a heated house, nor can a guinea 
pig stand such sudden changes of temperature. 

Under such abuse certain diseases are- bound to develop 
among guinea pigs. Frexjuently the nm'ice in the guinea pig 
industry will unwittingly commit some of these abuses. There- 
fore he should acquaint himself with all the possible diseases 
liable to injure his stock and the causes of each. 

Since an ounce of prevention is always worth a pound of 
cure it is better to avoid those conditions which are harmful 
rather than try to remedy that which was caused by neglect. 
It must be remembered that these infections are rare; in fact, 

55 



some of them are very seldom heard of. Nevertheless, this 
chapter will describe every disease known to the guinea pig 
industry. 

A sick guinea pig shows his condition by his dull actions, 
rough coat, clouded eyes and sluggish movements. His entire 
attitude is that of being "played out." A heavy throbbing 
usually appears at the haunches as though each breath was 
costing him great effort. Until recently this throbbing, or 
pumping, as it is more commonly knov/n, was considered a cer- 
tain sign of pneumonia. More recent investigations show that 
it is liable to be present in almost any disease and indicates only 
low vitality and weakness. This throbbing or pumping is the 
])ulse of the guinea pig. The increasing of the throbs, but with 
larger intervals between each, indicates slower heart action. 
This is usually followed by death within a short time unless 
some stimulant is used in a final effort to save the guinea pig. 

The most effective stimulant for a dying guinea pig is a 
s()luti(Mi of one drop of nux vomica and a pinch of salt mixed 
in a fourth of a glass of water. Inject ten drops under the 
skin on the underside of the guinea pig below the heart, at 
hour intervals with an injection needle. With a revival of 
vitality discontinue this and use only the treatment required 
for the Specific disease. 

A sick guinea pig should always be separated from the 
rest of the stock and special feed dishes used for his quarters. 

Caused by dampness, drafts or a sudden drop in the tem- 
perature. The guinea pigs affected lose their appetite, breathe 
with difficulty, hunch up in a corner and throb very heavy at 
the sides. Mucus usually appears about the nose. Guinea pig 
often sneezes and makes a wheezing noise. Treatment: Re- 
move the guinea pig affected to separate quarters, preferably to 
a place that can be kept very warm. Prepare a solution of one 
part of creosote, two parts of creoline and seven parts of water. 
This solution should be evaporated over a stove in the new 
(juarters. Creoline is a germicide and creosote a lung remedy. 

56 



The creoline does n(^t cure, but prevents the further develop- 
ment of the disease. 

Prepare a second sokition of one drop of nux vomica, three 
drops of aconite, one teaspoonful of spirits of nitre, half tea- 
sponful of sugar and one-half glass of water. Give each in- 
fected guinea pig one teaspoonful of this solution morning and 
night. Nux vomica is a strychnine compound ; its purpose in 
treating pneumonia cases is to keep up the heart action. Spirits 
of nitre reduces the blood pressure and resulting fevers. 
Aconite acts directly on the disease in the lungs. Rub the 
chest of the guinea pig with camphorated oil and wrap same 
with a small piece of llannel. 

Keep the sick guinea pig well nourished while under this 
treatment ; when signs of improvement show% discontinue the 
vapor treatment and remove the guinea pig to a place where 
plenty of sunshine may be had. Continue with the nux 
vomica and nitre until the guinea pig is fully recovered. Pneu- 
monia for years has been considered incurable. However, by 
following the above directions carefully, a fair percentage of 
cases may be saved. 

Subf rruloiitB 

Caused by a neglected cold or continued exposure in damj) 
and unfit quarters. Symptoms very similar to colds and i)neu- 
monia with exception that a dry cough may usually be heard. 
Guinea pig wastes away slowly. Often lingers for two or three 
weeks. Disease is incurable; best to dispose of infected guinea 
pig so as to prevent others contracting it. 

Prrmaturr Itrtha 

Premature or still-birth is caused by the jarring, drop- 
ping or unnecessary handling of a sow about to have young. 
A sudden scare, such as a dog or cat would cause by jumping 
in front of the breeding pen, or a continual disturbance as 
would l)e caused l)y several males fighting, is also liable to 
cause a sow to have young prematurely. Beginners are often 
bothered at first with this trouble for the reason the average 
beginner treats his stock on receiving them more as pets than 
animals of reproduction. To avoid premature births, disturlj 

57 



the breeding' stock as little as possible. Don't allow visitors 
to handle them, and keep them well fed. 

A sow which gives birth prematurely often becomes sick 
and dies. The sickness is caused by one of three ailments — 
caked breast, pneumonia or peritonitis. The caked breast is 
seldom fatal if taken in time. Rub the breast with warm 
camphorated oil several times a day and open the nipple as 
soon as possible by gently pressing with a downward motion. 
Keep the milk flowing until nature provides for its drying up. 
This may most conveniently be done by moving the sow to a. 
pen with a number of youngsters in. The youngsters will 
nurse indiscriminately. Pneumonia often strikes a sow in the 
weak, after-condition caused by premature birth, especially 
if she is kept in unfavorable quarters. Peritonitis is caused by 
internal injury in giving birth. If the young are unusually 
large they will sometimes tear the birth passage. Gangrene 
and peritonitis will then set in and death usually results. 

Guinea pig lice are of a light g'reenish yellow color and 
have pointed heads which they stick in the animal they 
live on. Poultry, dog lice, etc., will also carry to guinea pigs 
if the guinea pigs are in the proximity of the lousy animal. 

Bare spots are caused by the rotting of the hair near the 
skin by the acid action of the nit or agg of the louse, while 
the mangy appearance of a guinea pig is invariably caused by 
the g'uinea pig scratching and digging itself in an attempt to 
ease the irritation caused by the Ijites of the lice. 

Lousy guinea pigs or those with bare spots should be 
dusted with a good insect powder, the powder being well 
rubbed into the skin, starting about the neck and working 
down the back, sides and stomach of the guinea pig. Should 
the powder be applied haphazardly the lice will work their way 
into the head and face of the guinea pig while being dusted. 
If the guinea pigs are kept in warm quarters, where there is 
no danger of their taking cold, they may l)e washed with a. 
creoline or carbolic solution (a teaspoonful of the former to 

58 



a quart of water, a teaspoonful of the latter to two (juarts of 
water). 

A very good preventive measure against lice is to mix 
some insect powder in the bedding whenever fresh bedding is 
placed in the hutch. 

Figures A to G show the action of the nit on the liair of 
the guinea pig; figure B showing the stump of the hair, figure 
C a partly rotted hair and figure D a hair with the nit 
attached. Figin-e E snows the louse itself. These drawings 
are, of course, greatly magnified. ' 




JParalyfitB 

Paralysis is seldom a disease, but the result of an injury 
of the spine. The injured guinea pig drags its hind leg.'?. 
Within a week the bowels and kidneys become afi:'ected l)y this 
dragging and death sets in. Guinep. pigs will usually crowd 
in a corner when disturbed and when large and small guinea 
pigs are mixed together in a pen. the large ones juii)|) on the 
small ones in their fright and efifort to get as far away from 
the source of the disturbance as possible. A number of small 
guinea pigs are injured this way. Bfopping guinea ])igs from 
high hutches may also injure their spine. 

Pressure on the spine will cauise paralysis. In g"ivini^ 
birth to young, a sow may be itnable t(^ pass them all. The 

59 



unborn young invariably cause pressure on the spine and 
paralysis. This is one of the worst forms of paj-alysis and 
causes great suffering to the sow. If there is no possibility of 
aiding the sow to give birth to her young, she should be 
chloroformed to end her suffering. 

There is another form of paralysis more of rheumatic 
origin. This forms is seldom fatal if taken in time. The 
guinea pig "hobbles" more than drags its hind legs. Rub the 
legs aft'ected with a good rheumatic liniment. 

iianltopa 

Caused by improper feeding, such as an excessive amount 
of green feed or insufficient dry feed. It may also be caused by a 
sudden change of feed. This often happens in the spring 
when raisers are changing to grass from the winter ration. 
Diarrhoea may also be caused by moldy or sour food. The 
sick guinea pig should be removed and fed only on hay and 
grains for several days. 

Bismuth and laudanum remedies are the most effective 
treatment. 

F(^r the former mix one part of powdered charcoal, two 
])arts of powdered chalk and seven parts of bismuth-subnitrate. 
Rub this mixture on the inside of the patient's mouth three or 
four times a day until the bowels become more regular. 

To administer the laudanum remedy first give the sick 
guinea pig five drops of castor oil and ten drops of olive oil. 
Half hour later give him four drops of laudanum. Repeat after 
twelve hours if the disease is not checked. Never try the 
laudanum remedy on a youngster or a guinea pig with low 
\'itality, as the castor oil has the effect of increasing the bowel 
movement to clean out the po'son In the bowels. This natur- 
ally is weakening and often kills the guinea pig if his vitality 
is not strong enough to withstand it. 

There are two different forms of this disease. \A'ith one 
the guinea pig walks or runs in a circle shaking its head. This 
is seldom fatal, although the aft'ected animals are of little value. 

60 



Since they are worthless both for experimental purposes and 
for exhibition. Injury in birth is usually the cause of this 
form of staggers. 

Very little, if anything, is known of the second form of 
staggers; in fact, the author of this publication has only seen 
one case of it and heard of another in ten years. The affected 
guinea pig jumps forward, running until he hits the side of 
the hutch, when he falls over and stretches out his legs, twitch- 
ing them as though in his death struggles. Frequently they 
die while in this condition, although about three-fourths of 
them survive. These spells of unconsciousness continue at 
intervals. Cause and remedy unknown. 

Brrttgn 

Vertigo is another of the rare diseases and is very seldom, 
if ever, fatal. The guinea pig afifected holds its head to one 
side and invariably is blind in the eye toward W'hich the head 
leans. The infection is caused by injury to the upper spine or 
by a rush of blood to the head. At times such stock will be 
accepted for lal)oratory experimenting, although they are 
worthless for exhi])ition. 

Caused usually by the overfeeding ot acid foods. Such 
as cabbage, salad, etc. When such greens are fed plenty of hay 
should also be kept in the hutches. Among youngsters it is 
sometimes caused l)y the lack of exercise. This infection sel- 
dom appears in matured guinea pigs, luit more among young- 
sters. The guinea pig becomes wet under the lower jaw due 
to an excretion from the stomach very similar to the slobbering 
of a l^aby. 

r^lix i)owdered charcoal in the grains, also rub some in 
and al)out the mouth of the patient. At the same give the 
guinea pig some castor oil. A large guinea pig should have 
about a teaspoonful while the small ones only several drops. 

"rot-bellied" guinea pig is another form of indigestion. 
Instead of slob1)ering at the mouth gas forms on the stomach, 
the stoniach swelling U]) until it is nearly double its normal 
size. The al)()ve Ireaiment also a])])lies to this form of indiges' 
tion. , : f^ 

61 



Caused by fighting between the guinea pigs, especially the 
males, ov by a rat, cat or dog bite. Wash the wound with 
lukewarm water. Clip the hair about it with scissors, after 
which apply tincture of iodine to the entire wound and the 
skin about it. Apply healing salve and bind the injured part 
up with clean gauze. Keep the guinea pig separate,! so that 
the others won't disturb the wound while healingf. 

lEgp uJrnulilr 

Caused either by a cold or by irritation from the prick of 
the end of a piece of straw or hay. Wash the eye with a sokt- 
tion of boracic acid. W^hile this trouble is not serious and 
never fatal, it may, if not properly attended to, leave the guinea 
pig blind in the infected eye. 

(ilubrrruUiBts nf tltp (ilau^ii 

This is one of the most fatal diseases among guinea pigs. 
It is a lingering disease and if not checked in its earlier stages 
is always fatal. Until recent years it was known as ciphtheria, 
undoubtedly because the infection usually strikes the victim 
in the glands of the throat. Investigation and research on 
this disease show the germs to be of tubercular nature. 

The disease may first be noticed by a swelling of the gland 
starting about the size of a pea. This grows until it often 
reaches the size of a walnut before breaking, when it gives off 
corruption and blood. The sore left will heal up, but within 
a month or two another gland will start swelling, sometimes 
two and three at a time. As the disease progresses the glands 
become affected all over the body. This swelling and breaking 
of the glands keep up until all the strength and energy of the 
victim are destroyed. Frequently the guinea i)ig will last as 
long as a year before dying. 

The disease is caused by a neglected cold settling in the 
glands, by heredity or by contact of other guinea pigs with 
the corruption from an infected gland. 

In its earlv stages, the guinea pig may sometimes l)e saved 
by lancing the gland just before breaking, cleaning out the 
corruption and painting the wound with tincture of iodine. 

62 



It IS not advisable to breed a guinea pig* which once 
showed symptoms of this disease because of the possibility of 
it spreaaing through heredity. Guinea pigs which are cured 
of this disease may be sold for experimental work. 

Usually caused by gnawing wood, fighting with other 
guinea pigs, by a fall or sudden contact with some hard. sub- 
Stance. 

While broken teeth is not a disease, it is frequently the 
cause of many diseases, since the guinea pig is unable to prop- 
erly masticate its food. 

Indigestion and bowel trouble may be direct result, while 
the animal is exposed to the attack of most any disease as a 
result of the privation wdiich they naturally undergo with 
])roken teeth. Feed the guinea pig with food that is easily 
digestible. It is advisable to sell ^*U'ch stf)ck when in condition 
for experimental work, since naturally they are of considerable 
extra care. 

This may be caused by the still-birth of the young (pre- 
mature birth) or by the lack of constituents required by their 
system. 

The instinct of a guinea pig, and, in fact, most of the 
lower grades of animal life, is to devour all young that are 
immattu-e at birth. 

Sometimes the breeding stock develop cannibalistic traits 
through this instinct and extend their eating t(^ the live young 
as well as the dead. Usually this is caused by the lack of either 
salt, lime or potash in their system. They devour the young 
in order to satisfy their craving for these salts. The blood con- 
tains a two per cent. S(dution of salt, while lime iS required by 
the l)one construction of the body and potash for the muscles. 
A certain amount of these minerals are furnished from the 
food, l)Ut cit times the food \v\U lack sufficient of these required 
constituents. 

Wlien the guinea pigs are Watered the salt may be. sup' 
plied by keeping a piece oi rocksalt in the hutch. The guinea 

63 



pigs will gnaw on the salt whenever they desire any. If the 
guinea pigs are not watered it is hardly advisable to use rock- 
salt, as this will cause too great a dryness in their mouth. Suf- 
ficient salt may then be had from stale bread, since bread con- 
tains a certain per cent, of salt. 

Should the hutches be whitewashed on the inside regu- 
larly the guinea pig will obtain sufficient lime by gnawing it 
off the walls. Potash may be supplied by occasionally mixing 
a little clean wood ash in their grains. 

If the stock still persists in eating live young, more severe 
steps should be taken by dipping the partly-eaten young in 
some offensive but not injurious substance, such as creosote or 
tincture of iron, and removing all other foodstuffs from the 
hutch. The nasty burning taste of these substances often 
breaks the habit. 

Do not allow anyone to spit on the floor of the guii'sea pig 
house. Shovild the excretion contain the germs of any dis- 
eases they are liable to carry to the guinea pigs -after the excre- 
tion has dried. 

Sprinkle the floor with a creoline solution (a teas])()onful 
of creoline to a quart of water) before sweeping the lloor of 
cavy house. 

Remove all sick guinea pigs to another building. 

Quarantine for at least two weeks all newly-purchased 
stock before moving them into the guinea pig house. 

Disinfect and whitewash the inside of hutches and i)ens 
regularly. 

Keep the grain bins out of the cavy house and away from 
all other animals. 

Scour and clean the feed and water dishes every day. 

Have a set of feed and water dishes for each pen and don't 
change the dishes from one pen to another when feeding. 

Avoid scattering dust as much as possible when clean'ng 
(Hit the hutches or pens. 

If you have sick guinea pigs under (|uarantine always feed 
them last. Scour your hands thoroughly before attending to 
any of }'oiir other guinea pigs. 

64 



CHAPTER XI , - '.^ 

Snut'H iEinv Irgtum rfi 

DON'T feed musty bay. 

DON'T allow green food to rot in the pens. , , / 

DON'T feed frozen or rotten beets,, carrots or apples. 
DON'T feed starchy food— such as potatoes, cracked corn, 

corn meal, molassed alfalfa, etc. . . ■.' 

DON'T feed g^rass wet from rains or, dew. 
DON'T allow short cut grass to heat in the pens. 
DON'T feed an overamount qf gneen fe)od if you are supply- 

ing water. 
DON'T think you can overfeed your, guinea pigs. 
DON'T keep guinea pigs on the flpor. 
DON'T mate less than three females to oni^niale. 
DON'T keep two or more breeding boars in one pen. 
DON'T handle sows heavy with young. " 
DON'T allow yom- stock to chill in the winter by exposing 

them to a variable temperature. 
DON'T keep the guinea pigs in a draft' or in a damp place. 
DON'T inbreed your guinea pigs. ' ■ ' 

DON'T forget that you can care for k large 'itumber of guinea 

pigs as readily as a, few. 




65 



«>f> 



CHAPTER XII ■ — . 

Ularkrttng 

When the young guinea pigs have reached the required 
age for shipping, the problem of reaHzing on the production, 
while not the most important phase of the industry, neverthe- 
less should receive careful consideration. A shipper can hardly 
expect to haphazardly crate his production, deliver them to an 
express station and thereby realize to the best advantage. 

First, he must endeavor to locate a market where he 
may expect the best returns, preferably a market in his own 
neigh1)orhood; although a distant market may be advantag- 
eous, should the increased price warrant paying the delivery 
charges, or should the delivery charges be paid by the receiver. 
To many, this advice is hardly necessary, but the amateur busi- 
ness man may find some value in our few suggestions. 

\\'hen soliciting orders from any institution, or, in fact, 
from any business house, success in obtaining same depends 
largely on neatness and plain, legible writing. A good, pulling 
letter, one that is not too long, but strong and concise, is of 
great value. A long, roundabout letter, asking numerous 
questions of an irrelevant nature, often meets the fate of falling 
into the waste-paper basket without a reply; for it must be 
rememlK^red that the institutions to which you write have more 
than your individual letter to attend to and cannot afford to 
spend several hours reading and replying to same. Some 
raisers may, of course, write to several hundred institutions at 
one time. l)Ut those foolish few run great risk of being floodet*! 
with orders and losing the good will of those they cannot fill. 

/V return stamp enclosed with your letter greatly increases 
the possibility of a reply, as the receiver of such a letter usually 
feels under o1)ligation of making a reply, even if only to say 
they are not in need of a supply at the time of writing. 

Tile failure to secure an order at the first writing should 

66 



not discourage, l)Ut rather stir up your ability to still greater 
efforts. Write again and again, at several weeks' intervals, for 
eventually you will reach the time when an order will arrive 
in reply to your appeal. 




^» 



PIgtire 17*-Slilpping Hutch 



&ht^t:ptng 



Ciuinea pigs are shipped by express. The l)<)xes in which 
they are sent should be about ten or twelves inches in height, 
with ventilation holes in the top and on the sides. In summer 
one-inch mesh wire may be used as a covering for the craters 
containing large guinea pigs, a smaller mesh wire being used 
tor small guinea pigs. The regular screen door wire is vary 
adaptable for this purpose. In winter the ventilation spaces 
should be decreased in size: light wooden slats may be used to 
cover the crates, allowing from )4 to J^ inch between the slats 
^iccordiu!.:" to the size of the stock. 



67 



Not too many i^Tiinea pig's should be crowded in a box, 
thinking that expressage may be saved by doing so, as it is 
j)ossible that some may arrive dead. From twelve to eighteen 
guinea pigs, according to size and the time of year, are suffi- 
cient for a box about 2)4 feet long by 12 inches wide, 8 inches 
high. 

Bedding should be used in the crates such as sawdust. 
chaff, etc., so as to absorb all moisture and keep the guinea pigs 
dry and clean. For food use hay, the amcnmt depcn 'ing on 
the distance of the shipment and the time of year, also roots, 
such as carrots, apples, beets, etc., from which they may obtain 
their moisture, and some stale bread, oats, etc. Water is not 
necessary or advisable, as it is liable to be spilled over the 
guinea pigs in transit. 

A shi])ment should never be sent on a Saturday, especially 
a;short distance delivery, for they usually remain at the freight 
station over Sunday and are not delivered until the following 
Monday. While lying over they are often neglected, and 




English Bi-ol.eii Coloi'«*(l Ciiiin**)! Pi;^ 

other boxes, crates, etc., are sometimes piled on them, whir'i 
otter, suffcxatcs the guinea nigs. They are also expose^^ 't > 
and li'ible to be destroyed b}' rats, which usually infest freight 

stations. 

(i8 



CHAPTER XIII 

Shr Jpnifttablr Uaiatug uf (Eutura ^iyfi 

The discovery that ,i^"uinea pig's were of inclispeiisal)le value 
in experimental and research work, that cultures of bacteria 
were practically the same on human beings and guinea p g's, 
immediately created a demand for the utility guinea pig which 
has been unrelinquishing in its call for more and more stock. 
As this tield of investig^ation has been perfected, and as the 
many new uses for which guinea pigs are available has beeii 
found, the; demand tias steadily increased until it is now nation- 
wdde. And still all this is only the grov/th of comparatively a 
few years, the industry still being in its infancy. The prospecis 
for the future are most encouraging, for not only are increas- 
mgly large numbers being used every day for scientific pur- 
poses, but the uses of these animals for food and fur purposes 
has greatly increased because of the scarcit\' and prevailing 
high prices of these commodities. 

Ah a ^rriTaitnn 

Any one desiring an easy, pleasant and interesting way 
of making money can find no better opportunity than the 
raising of guinea pigs. The time required is short, a few hours 
each da}^ devoted to these little animals being sufficient to care 
for three or four hundred, while the pleasure derived froin 
the hours so spent is more than sufficient to repay the efforts, 
not considering" the financial returns, wdiich are by no means 
insignificant. Boys and girls, women, the aged, and the w'eak 
and infirm do very well in raising these little animals, as no 
specially hard or la])orious work is required. 

Bo3's and girls naturally dike pets and take great interest 
in them. The care of ■'sevet'al pens of guinea pigs not only 
r.ffords them lots of pleasure and amusement, but also provides 
them with ample spending money. AVhat better prospects 
could parents desire? It must be remembered that idleness 
encourages bad habits, especially in young, when habits so 

69 



learned become fixed in the future man or woman. The 
habit of gentleness to animals, interest in nature, and ability 
to provide for one's self are certainly commendable traits in 
anyone. 

It should not be understood that the raising of guinea 
pigs is merely a child's pastime. By no means is it such. 
Today in different parts of the country are large guinea pig 
farms, or caviaries as they are frequently called, where raisers 
make a business of breeding nothing but guinea pigs and 
growing their food. And still the production of these farms 
and the numbers that are bred by small raisers are by no 
means sufficient to meet the demand. 

The capital needed is small, as one may begin in a small 
way and gradually increase his plant imtil the desired size is 
reached. 

Cam rnat at l^utsiitg 

The inexpensive food which guinea pigs eat, and the small 
amount of time required to care for them makes the cost of 
keeping very low. Many breeders estimate that the young 
may be raised to a salable age (about three months old) for a 
cost of about ten cents each. 

In summer this cost is even lower, as all the food necessary 
may be had for the time spent in collecting. Even the breeder 
who finds it necessary to buy all he feeds can raise these little 
animals for a maximum cost of fifteen cents each, and certainly 
with all the waste trimmings of cabbage, celery, lettuce, grass, 
etc., to be found both summer and winter on the farm and 
about the city market houses, not many breeders should be 
compelled to buy much. Often the young may be sold before 
three months old; for example, when used for diphtheria, 
typhoid fever, etc., antitoxin work; in such cases the cost of 
raising would be still further reduced. 

iSrmarkablr ProUftrupfifi 

Since guinea pigs breed about five times a year and have 
trom one to seven young at a birth, the reproductive ability 
of these little animals is very large. A female will raise from 
twelve to tifteen young a year. 

70 



With a start of five or six females one could reasonably 
expect at the end of the first year about seventy young born., 
while many of the young from the first several litters will 
themselves have young, so remarkable is their generation of 
offsprings. Thus at a very conservative estimate one may 
reasonably expect about one hundred offsprings at the end 
of the first year, which should be worth from $75.00 to $125.0(1 
according to their size. Imagine now^ what profits may be 
expected from fifty to one hundred breeders, which number 
may very readily be cared for by anyone in their spare time. 

lEaaii to iSat«P 

Don't think because of the vast amount of detail covered 
by this book that guinea pigs are difficult to raise. Decidedly, 
such is not the case. In the foregoing chapters of this book 
every phase pertaining to the guinea pig industry was ex- 
plained thoroughly, altho most of this would hardly be needed 
for the average raiser. For example nine raisers out of every 
ten never line-breed or in-breed their guinea pigs. They 
invariably keep an unrelated male with three to eight females. 
As you know after reading this book, they are following the 
method of cross-breeding, usually, however they don't even 
know this. The average guinea pig raiser hardly knows what 
diseases are, among his stock. True, he knows they will take 
cold if left in damp, wet pens or in a draft, but as for knowin.^ 
about the possible infections discribed in this book he undoubt- 
edly would ridicule and doubt your words if told of them. 
Most of these diseases are rare infections, in fact some of them 
have only been heard of several times. 

The object of this book was to cover everything pertaining 
to the guinea pig industry, altho in presenting such detail to 
one unfamiliar with guinea pigs it might give them the 
impression of being a very difficult task to undertake. 

iMaktu5 llip BXm-t 

Selecting good stock is more important than any othei 
move you may make towards starting in this profitable indus- 
try. Secure a good, reliable source of supply and order there 

7! 



from. We have pointed out in a previous chapter the require- 
ments exacted for the utility guinea pig. Remember these 
and order accordingly. 

Don't buy guinea pig^ from unreliable sources just because 
they are cheap. Cheap usually represents cheap quality. 
Very often these unreliable sources offer poor, inbred or degen- 
erate stock, sometimes even going so far as to ofTer used 
guinea pigs, making the prices low and tempting so as to un- 
load this worthless stock. 

While the breeding of guinea pigs is undoubtedly the 
most profitable undertaking of the present day, the beginner 
must start with a good foundation, for one could hardly expect 
success from worthless stock. 

Follow carefully the instructions as stated in this book; 
remember the above advice and you may rest assured that 
3'our foundation for a successful undertaking is well laid. 




Winter vie^v at a Ne^v" England Caviary 



CitflJidirti rwui. 30IO W. I»i«ii>bln St.. Phil*. 



72 



LitJKHKl vjr 



002 836 420 9 



A9m5 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



002 836 420 9 



